Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Welcome to our FAQ page, where we've compiled common questions including general inquiries and detailed product-related answers. Please find the relevant section for your query.
If you don't find your question listed, feel free to contact us using the form at the bottom of the page, and we will respond to your inquiry within 48 hours.
Self-regulating means the cable has the ability to automatically adjust its output power. When the temperature is low, the output power increases. As the temperature rises, the power consumption decreases, allowing the cable to adjust its output power based on the surrounding temperature. This makes it more energy-efficient compared to traditional constant power cables.
Additionally, different sections of the same cable will output varying heating power depending on the external temperature. For example, in a cable running from a warm indoor environment to the outdoors, the indoor section will have a lower output power than the outdoor section due to the difference in ambient temperature.
No, the length specified for all our products does not include the power cable length. The length description refers only to the length of the heating cable itself.
For constant wattage heating cables: NO! Shortening them isnot possible. Modifying their length can lead to improper operation, overheating, and potential safety hazards.
Self-regulating heating cables: YES, But NOT RECOMMANDED, The cables can be cut to length due to their design. However, it's important to note that these cables come with pre-installed sealed ends. Cutting the cables requires proper sealing of the ends to ensure safety. Without the necessary expertise, improper cutting can pose serious safety risks.
Therefore, we do not recommend cutting the cables yourself Instead, we offer a range of pre-cut sizes to meet your needs.
Yes, we are currently welcoming bulk orders and will offer attractive pricing. For more details, please contact us via email at yelodeer@yelodeer.com.
After your products have been shipped, it may take 5-7 business days to deliver them to you. However, all delivery dates specified are estimates only and are subject to change depending on a number of factors, including but not limited to, weather conditions, international customs procedures, local couriers and delivery companies, etc.
We provide different shipping methods with different shipping time and prices. If you need a product urgently, you can choose those shipping methods that can provide the earliest delivery date.
Pipe Freeze Protection Solutions
Q1: Do heating cables really prevent pipes from freezing?
Absolutely! Our heat tape is a powerful solution to keep your pipes flowing smoothly, even in the harshest winter conditions. By using heat tape, you’re not just preventing your pipes from freezing—you’re safeguarding your home from potential disasters like burst pipes and costly water damage. For the ultimate winter defense, pair our heat tape with our Pipe Insulation Roll. Together, they create a fortress of protection around your pipes, giving you peace of mind all winter long!
Q2: What is heat trace?
Pipe heating cables, also known as heat trace or heat tape, are designed to be wrapped around pipes, or installed in and around them, to prevent freezing in cold temperatures.
Q3: In-pipe vs. on-pipe installation: Which one is better for your pipe freeze protection needs?
Deciding between in-pipe and on-pipe installations might seem straightforward based on application, but each method has unique benefits. For more details, please check out our blog-- In-Pipe vs. On-Pipe Installation for Pipe Freeze-Protection.
Q4: Can heating cables cause a fire?
Not at all, as long as the installation is done correctly. That said, improper installation, usage, or maintenance of heating cables can result in fires, electric shocks, or frozen pipes. Especially when using constant wattage cables, it's crucial to avoid bending or overlapping the cables.
Q5: How do heating cables work?
Heating cables work by converting electrical energy into heat to prevent pipes from freezing. For cables without a thermostat, they begin heating immediately when plugged in, releasing heat continuously. However, cables with a thermostat only start to heat when the temperature drops to 3°C (37°F) or lower, conserving energy by only operating when needed. Most of our cables are self-regulating, meaning they adjust their heat output according to the ambient temperature, optimizing energy consumption.
Q6: What should I do if I finish wrapping the heating cable around the insulated water pipe, but there’s still some leftover cable?
If it's not too much trouble, the best option is to unwrap and rewrap the cable, ensuring the wraps have a slightly tighter interface to fully utilize the remaining heating cable. This maximizes the efficiency of the heat produced.
A simpler option is to wrap the leftover cable back around the end section; overlapping is not a concern since our heating cable is self-regulating. This will generate additional heat, causing the cable to sense the increased temperature and lower its output power.
The final option is to cut off the excess cable. If you choose this method, make sure to seal the cut end with a waterproof end cap to prevent water ingress.
Please note that cutting should ONLY Be Done with Self-regulating Heating Cables. Constant Wattage cables should NOT be cut.
In-Pipe Heating Cables
Q1: My pipe is labeled as 3/4 inch. Is this in-pipe heating cable suitable?
Yes, this product is designed for use with 3/4-inch pipes. However, please ensure there are no fittings or sections where the inner diameter is reduced to less than 17mm (0.67 inches). If such restrictions exist, the heating cable may not fit properly.
Q2: My pipe has bends, can this in-pipe heating cable go through them?
This in-pipe heating cable can navigate through gradual, sweeping bends without any issues. However, it is not suitable for sharp bends like 90-degree or 45-degree elbows. If your pipe has such abrupt turns, you'll need to replace those sections with smoother bends to allow the cable to pass through easily.
Q3: Can this in-pipe heating cable pass through pipe bends or elbows?
This in-pipe heating cable can easily navigate gradual, sweeping bends. However, it is not suitable for sharp turns like 90-degree or 45-degree elbows. If your pipe has such abrupt bends, you’ll need to replace those sections with smoother, sweeping bends to allow the cable to pass through without issue.
Q4: Are there any restrictions on how the in-pipe heating cable is inserted, such as water flow direction?
No, the cable can be inserted in either direction without limitations. It works effectively regardless of the water flow direction, making it ideal for both supply and drainage systems.
○ Supply Pipes: For pumping water from lakes or rivers.
○ Drainage Pipes: For removing water from your home.
Q5: Do I need to reset the GFCI after a power outage?
Generally, no. The GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) does not require resetting after a standard power outage. It only requires a manual reset if it detects a ground fault (leakage). Once power is restored, the system will resume operation as normal unless a fault is detected.
Q6: Can this in-pipe heating cable be used for drainage, sump pits, or wastewater systems?
Yes, it can. However, we also offer heating cables specifically designed for sewage and wastewater pipes. The main difference is that dedicated sewage heating cables are less pressure-resistant but are perfect for open-ended sewage pipes or drainage channels and are more cost-effective. For more details, please visit: In Drain Pipe Heating Cable.
Q7: Do I need a thermostat for this in-pipe heating cable?
A thermostat is not strictly required but is highly recommended. Using a thermostat significantly reduces energy consumption by automatically controlling the heating, preventing the cable from running constantly at full power. This saves electricity, eliminates manual operation, and prevents the water inside the pipe from overheating.
The YeloDeer Pipe Heating Controller is specifically designed for in-pipe and on-pipe heating cables. It features a temperature sensor, precise temperature settings, and automatic control to optimize performance and energy efficiency. Over time, the energy savings will easily outweigh the cost of the thermostat.
Q8: Do I need to wrap the pipe with insulation if the in-pipe heating cable is already installed? What type of insulation is recommended?
While insulation is not required, it is highly recommended. This is especially important for above-ground pipes exposed to outdoor air.
Insulation helps reduce heat loss and improves the efficiency of the in-pipe heating cable. It allows the cable to maintain the desired temperature while using less energy.
For above-ground pipes, we recommend using closed-cell polyethylene insulation sleeves. These are effective and widely available. If your pipe is buried underground, there’s no need to add insulation since the ground naturally provides protection.
Q9: Should I place the plug end of the cable indoors or outdoors?
It is recommended to place the plug end indoors where it can be safely connected to the power supply. This protects it from rain and other environmental risks.
The self-regulating heating cable adjusts its heat output based on temperature, so whether the location is above or below freezing does not matter. The cable is rated to operate in extreme temperatures as low as -40°C / -40°F, ensuring reliability in harsh winter conditions.
Q10: I need a longer in-pipe heating cable, but I don’t see the size I need. Can you customize it?
Yes, we offer customized lengths up to 400 feet. Please note that for lengths over 200 feet, the cable will be a 240V system instead of 120V.
If you need a specific size not listed, please contact us at yelodeer@yelodeer.com for a custom order.
Q11: What’s the difference between 120V and 240V systems for cables?
● A 120V system supports cable lengths up to 200 feet.
● A 240V system doubles the capacity, supporting longer runs up to 400 feet.
Despite handling more power, a 240V system does not require larger cables. Standard #14 or #12 wires are sufficient for circuits up to 15 amps, making it ideal for longer water pipes.
Q12: What is the max. water temperature? What if the water gets too high?
Our self-regulating heating cable maintains a maximum temperature of 65°C (149°F). When the water temperature in the pipe approaches or reaches 65°C, the heating cable will automatically adjust its power to prevent the temperature from rising further, ensuring safety and energy efficiency.
It’s important to note that the water temperature in the pipe is influenced not only by the heating cable’s power but also by factors such as water flow rate, pipe size, and material.
We highly recommend installing a Pipe Heating Controller. The controller precisely regulates the pipe temperature to ensure it does not exceed the set limit, effectively preventing the water temperature from becoming too high. Additionally, the controller enhances energy efficiency by automatically turning off the heating cable when not needed, saving power and providing added safety.
Q13: Will the self-regulating heating cable completely shut off?
No, the self-regulating heating cable will not completely shut off. It automatically adjusts its power based on the surrounding temperature. When the temperature rises, the cable reduces its power; when the temperature drops, it increases its power. However, the power will always stay within a certain range and will not turn off completely. This ensures continuous heating to prevent freezing or other potential issues.
If you need the cable to completely shut off, you can use a Pipe Heating Controller. The controller will turn off the heating cable once the pipe temperature exceeds the set limit, providing a safer and more energy-efficient solution.
In Drain Pipe Heating Cables
Q1: What applications is this product suitable for?
This heating cable is suitable for various scenarios, including drainage systems under dirt roads, roof drainage systems, and sewer lines, effectively preventing freezing in pipes.
Q2: My septic line is not always filled with water, it might be empty most of the time. Is this heating cable suitable for that?
Yes, even if there is rarely water in the pipe or it is empty, our heating cable can still function properly. It automatically adjusts its output power to respond to external temperature changes, effectively preventing freezing while avoiding overheating that could damage the pipes.
Q3: What types of pipes is this product compatible with?
Our heating cable is widely applicable and can be used with various materials, including PVC and metal pipes, as well as septic lines and sewage systems.
Roof De-icing Cables
Q1: How do heated roof cables compare to chemical deicers?
Heated roof cables offer several advantages over chemical deicers. Unlike chemical deicers, which can be harmful to wildlife and plants and difficult to apply accurately, heated cables provide a consistent and reliable solution for preventing ice dams. They work independently of ambient temperatures and avoid the risk of damaging shingles or other roofing materials, offering a safer and more effective approach to winter roof maintenance.
Q2: How do I estimate the roof and gutter deicing cable length needed?
The required length of deicing cables depends on the size and areas of your roof that need ice melting, including gutters, downspouts, valleys, and/or overhangs. Detailed measurement instructions can be found on each product’s page and in the product manual included with your package. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us at yelodeer@yelodeer.com. Demi will be happy to assist you.
Q3: What should I do if the Roof & Gutter Heating Cable is too long or too short during installation?
Too Long:
● Run the excess cable through a downspout, ensuring it extends at least 1 foot from the bottom to create a clear drainage path for melting ice.
● If you've already placed cable in the downspout, consider running an additional length back up.
● Increase the height of the zigzag patterns (triangles) along the roofline to use up the extra cable.
Too Short:
● Adjust the zigzag pattern by tightening the triangles while still maintaining the recommended height based on the roof's overhang.
● Purchase an additional heating cable to cover the areas that remain uncovered.
Q4: Can the cable be installed to remove already formed ice dams or clear existing ice or snow from a roof?
It is not advisable to use this product for removing ice dams that have already formed or for clearing existing ice and snow from your roof. The presence of existing ice can obstruct the proper installation of the cables, preventing them from being installed in the most effective manner. The cable is designed to prevent new ice build-up and maintain a clear, ice-free surface, rather than addressing ice that is already present.
Q5: Can I overlap the cable over another run or have the cable touching some other portion of it?
For our self-regulating cables, overlapping is acceptable. These cables are designed to adjust their heat output to avoid overheating, so they can safely overlap or touch other sections without risk of damage.
In contrast, with our constant wattage cables, it is crucial to avoid overlapping or allowing the cable to touch itself or other active constant wattage cables. Such contact can lead to overheating and failure of the system.
Q6: What types of roofs are compatible with the Gutter Heat Trace Cable?
Our self-regulating cables are versatile and can be used with nearly any standard roofing material. However, it's always a good idea to consult the manufacturer’s guidelines for your specific roofing material to ensure compatibility.
On the other hand, our constant wattage kits are not suitable for flat roofs, wooden gutters, and should not be used on roofs made from slate, stone, metal, ceramic, wood, rubber, or composite (tar and gravel) materials.
Q7: Should I leave the cable plugged in on warm days?
No, it’s recommended to unplug the cable when there’s no need for ice melting. Running the cable during warm weather is an unnecessary use of energy and could potentially cause the heating cables to overheat.
Q8: Do I need to remove the cable after winter?
No, there’s no need to remove the cables once winter is over. The heating cables can remain installed on your roof and other areas year-round without any concerns, as they are designed with UV protection to withstand exposure to sunlight. You can leave the cables in place and simply plug them in again when the next winter arrives, ready for continued use.